tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14175260315006359352024-03-13T04:49:46.663-07:00The Neg BlogAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18007036498148685593noreply@blogger.comBlogger42125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1417526031500635935.post-76161702962490124832013-05-13T16:22:00.001-07:002013-05-13T16:36:17.135-07:00<h2>
Day 42 - The Final Countdown</h2>
Essentially I've finished. I've some videos to edit/upload and pictures from a previous day (control panel creation/wiring) but I'm too excited so thought I'd pop these up now anyway :)<br />
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Thanks to Harry for the extra hands, tools and woodworking skills, Pierre for the tank, lettering and other artistic direction, Calla for the drill press and creation of a LED block, Brian for spraying and everything else, plus a few others....<br />
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Feel free to pop round for a game or two of something. <br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18007036498148685593noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1417526031500635935.post-39996797981617602522013-05-13T16:03:00.000-07:002013-05-13T16:03:22.949-07:00<h2>
Day 41 - Stuck Art</h2>
Tonight we (me and Brian) put the tank stickers on. Easy enough as they were small (and I wasn't doing it). Almost job done, just waiting for the bezel undercoat to dry then it's on with the black paint and tidy up. <br />
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Yes, I know it looks like she's pointing at the flipper button (or the Sun).<br />
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Of course, it wouldn't be complete without a blatant plug, so visit Brian at http://2wheelsmotorcycletraining.co.uk/ if you need bike training or advanced bike training and happen to live in the north-east of England :)<br />
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The bezel was just four pieces of hardboard (about 2mm) stuck together with tape on one side and then glued.<br />
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Also, because the stand was the wrong angle and position for the monitor to be viewed nicely I made use of the monitor mount I created originally.<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18007036498148685593noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1417526031500635935.post-36857250595236606062013-05-06T17:59:00.002-07:002013-05-06T17:59:57.193-07:00<h2>
Day 40 - Control Panel Is Born</h2>
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With the plastic cut yesterday, I cut out the marquee and mounted it. The aluminium is screwed in at the top (for changing/access) and bonded to the wood using contact adhesive at the bottom.<br />
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I fitted the pinball buttons (also double as left/right mouse buttons I hope). Rather fetching I think and better than the black I was going to get.<br />
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After checking the trackball and buttons fitted I measured and cut out the holes for the joystick into the MDF then cut out about 3mm for the trackball to fit (as it has to span the MDF and the polycarbonate).<br />
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After this, I placed the art for the control panel onto the MDF, peeled back the protective cover for the polycarbonate and placed this on top sandwiching the art between the two.<br />
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Then just a simple matter of sticking the buttons into the holes, fitting the trackball bezel and trying it out in the cabinet.<br />
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There's some videos to be edited for this that will be uploaded shortly.<br />
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All that is left is:<br />
1. Put on side-art tanks<br />
2. Wire up control panel<br />
3. Fit glass and monitor with a bezel (no idea yet, probably hardboard)<br />
4. Play games<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18007036498148685593noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1417526031500635935.post-43207749090292055892013-05-06T17:41:00.001-07:002013-05-07T01:07:05.317-07:00<h2>
Day 39 - Polycarbonate</h2>
The polycarbonate arrived (I bought 2mm). I bought this as it is supposed to be easier to cut than acrylic but scratches easier. One piece for the control panel and one piece for the two halves of the marquee (the marquee is sandwiched between)<br />
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First we taped where the cuts were going, put some thin wood below to strengthen and support it and used the jigsaw with a metal blade to slowly cut the plastic in half. Harry did the cutting as he is a master builder and I was too scared. Remember to keep the backing tape on.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n95YNZffKzo/UYhJtoE9KEI/AAAAAAAABLo/Xf7PUVgOfHo/s1600/20130504_171121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="120" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n95YNZffKzo/UYhJtoE9KEI/AAAAAAAABLo/Xf7PUVgOfHo/s200/20130504_171121.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UZxQV1ZaJhQ/UYhLu7j187I/AAAAAAAABMc/gmxEzBjb76c/s1600/20130504_153456.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="120" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UZxQV1ZaJhQ/UYhLu7j187I/AAAAAAAABMc/gmxEzBjb76c/s200/20130504_153456.jpg" width="200" /></a>After drilling all the holes (except trackball) into the MDF (18mm) it was off to Calla's workshop to drill the holes with the 28mm wood spade bit.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-G9w_3LG7UO8/UYhJ-fhFUyI/AAAAAAAABLw/0uAalaX2Exw/s1600/20130505_113409.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="120" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-G9w_3LG7UO8/UYhJ-fhFUyI/AAAAAAAABLw/0uAalaX2Exw/s200/20130505_113409.jpg" width="200" /></a>First we placed the polycarbonate below the MDF control panel and taped it up tight with gaffer tape, then we placed another piece of MDF below that (making a polycarbonate sandwich) and clamped it. The idea is to stop any vibration when cutting.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rJrWTagQZv0/UYhM7Qv5bBI/AAAAAAAABMo/kn9d0TulZhQ/s1600/20130505_113438.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="192" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rJrWTagQZv0/UYhM7Qv5bBI/AAAAAAAABMo/kn9d0TulZhQ/s320/20130505_113438.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_caLFnDD9HA/UYhKOGwiHHI/AAAAAAAABL4/6onemtZDPMw/s1600/20130505_115250.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="120" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_caLFnDD9HA/UYhKOGwiHHI/AAAAAAAABL4/6onemtZDPMw/s200/20130505_115250.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
We set the drill speed to it's lowest (500rpm) and went slowly through the mdf into the polycarbonate (thereby making everything match up exactly).<br />
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Some holes couldn't be done (too far for the drill press to reach), so I did these back home with the hand drill on slow speed. The idea being to go slow but steady resulting in scraping away of the polycarbonate rather then forceful drilling.<br />
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While we were there he soldered wires onto my little switches (for pause and power) and showed off his magic tricks by twisting the wires in a drill.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eXU09lTQh08/UYhKe9_VMAI/AAAAAAAABMI/h1IS1t-73Zs/s1600/20130505_121217.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="120" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eXU09lTQh08/UYhKe9_VMAI/AAAAAAAABMI/h1IS1t-73Zs/s200/20130505_121217.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-smapN_GafQ4/UYhKPQDkYlI/AAAAAAAABMA/e9A7E3hTJ_I/s1600/20130505_121047.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="120" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-smapN_GafQ4/UYhKPQDkYlI/AAAAAAAABMA/e9A7E3hTJ_I/s200/20130505_121047.jpg" width="200" /></a>If you're ever in the need for a high quality but cheap guitar pedal (diy or built) then visit him at http://pedalparts.co.uk/, international delivery too :)<br />
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This is the finished article (with covering tape on).<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18007036498148685593noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1417526031500635935.post-43972106579715069822013-05-03T13:29:00.002-07:002013-05-03T13:29:56.849-07:00<h2>
Day 38 - Shiny Shiny Stuff</h2>
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After getting lost by the hapless City Link my art finally turned up and printed.com have done a splendid job. Click to zoom.</div>
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This is the marquee done on special back-lit paper:</div>
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This contains the two side pieces (tanks from metal slug), the control panel and I had some spare space so created a little something for the monitor bezel (to go at the bottom). The QR-barcodes, you'll just have to scan to see where it takes you :)</div>
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Here is the bezel closer up:<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18007036498148685593noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1417526031500635935.post-50182421720534296002013-04-24T15:38:00.004-07:002013-04-24T15:43:33.369-07:00<h2>
Day 37 - And Neg said Let There Be Light</h2>
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Today my stupendous mate who happens to be a guitar pedal designer and fabricator created me a LED block for the trackball (which has space underneath to take a little PCB). Here it is. I've no idea why the lit version is mirrored, it's ok when you look at it from the file explorer. It's a lot brighter with 12v (this was just 9v as a test) and when viewed not from my phone camera.</div>
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This plugs straight into a molex from the PC and uses the 12v (yellow) rather than 5v (red) supply meaning half the number of resisters are required. Cost about £2, which is a lot cheaper than the £30 the arcade parts website want :)<br />
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All the LED's are in sockets so can be taken out and replaced with any mix of colours - I may end up with yellow, which was the original plan.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q4VAHJxm8eI/UXhdgDfYRfI/AAAAAAAAA6w/KIl4GNH5xSM/s1600/20130424_123210.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q4VAHJxm8eI/UXhdgDfYRfI/AAAAAAAAA6w/KIl4GNH5xSM/s200/20130424_123210.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vuA_DXXzMUM/UXhdg1pEGQI/AAAAAAAAA68/T6KCkH_p2Z4/s1600/20130424_123307.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vuA_DXXzMUM/UXhdg1pEGQI/AAAAAAAAA68/T6KCkH_p2Z4/s200/20130424_123307.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
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Anyway, if you're in need of a guitar pedal (kit or ready made) head over to <a href="http://pedalparts.co.uk/">http://pedalparts.co.uk/</a></div>
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I also got a couple of these very tiny buttons (black version) to be used as the back/escape and power buttons. They should be very inconspicuous, they are about 5mm in diameter and a total of about 13mm. From <a href="http://www.rapidonline.com/electronic-components/low-profile-push-switches-30972/">http://www.rapidonline.com/electronic-components/low-profile-push-switches-30972/</a> at about 40p each. Lovely solid feel to the press action too.<br />
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<a href="http://www.rapidonline.com/catalogueimages/module/M030972P01WL.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.rapidonline.com/catalogueimages/module/M030972P01WL.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18007036498148685593noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1417526031500635935.post-40455447179691552472013-04-21T13:00:00.002-07:002013-04-21T13:00:31.857-07:00<br />
<h2>
Day 35 - Control Panel Done</h2>
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All the parts arrived. There were a few minor issues to contend with:</div>
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<ul>
<li>The trackball Y axis was wired with colours that didn't match the controller PCB (the PCB has three connections - two for trackball and one for a spinner). Problem was if I wired it wrong the spinner is wired differently so could have shorted out. I just traced the wires, matched them to the wiring diagram and it was sorted. </li>
<li>All the spade connectors are 4.8mm but most of the buttons are 2.8 so I'll either have to squash the connectors or get them to send me some replacement switches with the correct sizes.</li>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EptN0TdqLmE/UXRDdgPEO9I/AAAAAAAAA24/hXnEMoEcRHY/s1600/923573_616932088336517_781642471_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="162" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EptN0TdqLmE/UXRDdgPEO9I/AAAAAAAAA24/hXnEMoEcRHY/s320/923573_616932088336517_781642471_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Through using the temporary panel I found the left joystick was too close to the side so I'll move Player 1 1cm to the right and Player 2 joystick can't fit the spade connectors properly as it hits the trackball so I'll move that 1cm to the right too (there's enough room to not hit the sides).</div>
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In case anyone is creating their own u-track and they haven't updated the wiring colours, these are the ones you connect:</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lOSKVztC8Yc/UXRFOdfwIcI/AAAAAAAAA3I/13bI_DjmZ4Y/s1600/UTrak+Wires.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lOSKVztC8Yc/UXRFOdfwIcI/AAAAAAAAA3I/13bI_DjmZ4Y/s320/UTrak+Wires.JPG" width="221" /></a></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18007036498148685593noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1417526031500635935.post-69072135028587203392013-04-18T14:30:00.002-07:002013-04-18T14:30:49.440-07:00<br />
<h2>
Day 34 - Art Done</h2>
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This is the finished control panel and marquee. The silver stripes are just placeholders for where the retainers are - they are brushed aluminium. After comments I made the marquee lettering bigger to make it more noticeable. It can't really get any bigger.</div>
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Next job is to measure out exactly my control panel mock-up before drilling the holes and placing all the items. If they all fit ok then it's just a case of making sure the control panel placements match this and testing the controls work.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pWvJTybsiPo/UXBlCUYXXbI/AAAAAAAAAxE/4LnBTE6tu90/s1600/controlpanel.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="160" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pWvJTybsiPo/UXBlCUYXXbI/AAAAAAAAAxE/4LnBTE6tu90/s320/controlpanel.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7xHqIJbkGDY/UXBlDjOtWeI/AAAAAAAAAxM/Yw4E79mPXuk/s1600/marquee2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="84" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7xHqIJbkGDY/UXBlDjOtWeI/AAAAAAAAAxM/Yw4E79mPXuk/s320/marquee2.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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Hopefully by Saturday (it's Thursday now) I'll be making the control panel up and ordering the art.</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18007036498148685593noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1417526031500635935.post-15394301526978321972013-04-16T16:44:00.001-07:002013-04-16T16:49:48.884-07:00<h2>
Day 33 - Controls Bought</h2>
All the controls have been bought. I'd have been happier with the Sanwa (or Seimitsu) buttons but they only come in shallow depths for metal mounting really and I didn't want to risk routing too much wood to allow them to be mounted.<br />
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Once these arrive I can get the holes drilled, double check the control panel art fits and get them printed and the acrylic sheets ordered.<br />
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<table border="1" style="height: 2090px; width: 600px;">
<tbody>
<tr><th>Picture</th><th>Qty</th><th>Details</th><th>More</th></tr>
<tr>
<td><img height="200" src="http://www.arcadeworlduk.com/product_images/o/108/LS-32-red__40575_zoom.jpg" width="200" /></td>
<td>2</td>
<td>Seimitsu LS 32 Arcade Joystick</td>
<td>A good all round choice. Not too sensitive like the Sanwa joysticks but the quality is almost as good.</td>
</tr>
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<td><img height="200" src="http://www.arcadeworlduk.com/product_images/e/455/happ-competition-red__18617_zoom.jpg" width="200" /></td>
<td>6</td>
<td>Happ Competition Arcade Button</td>
<td>Player 1/2 upper three buttons. Convex</td>
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<td><img height="200" src="http://www.arcadeworlduk.com/product_images/e/735/happ-competition-yellow__59991_zoom.jpg" width="200" /></td>
<td>6</td>
<td>Happ Competition Arcade Button </td>
<td>Player 1/2 lower three buttons. Convex</td>
</tr>
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<td><img height="200" src="http://www.arcadeworlduk.com/product_images/w/189/happ-standard-yellow__64578_zoom.jpg" width="200" /></td>
<td>2</td>
<td>Happ Standard Arcade Button</td>
<td>Concave for pinball at side of cabinet. I i figured the yellow strip around the cabinet seemed the best choice of colour for these. Was always going to choose black (might look like a bullet from the tank), but changed my mind.</td>
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<td><img height="200" src="http://www.arcadeworlduk.com/product_images/u/826/il-black-player-1__27158_zoom.jpg" width="200" /></td>
<td>1</td>
<td>Black IL Concave Arcade Start Button Player 1</td>
<td><br /></td>
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<td><img height="200" src="http://www.arcadeworlduk.com/product_images/z/709/il-black-player-2__23277_zoom.jpg" width="200" /></td>
<td>1</td>
<td>Black IL Concave Arcade Start Button Player 2</td>
<td><br /></td>
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<td><img height="200" src="http://www.arcadeworlduk.com/product_images/v/857/il-button-black__71655_zoom.jpg" width="200" /></td>
<td>2</td>
<td>IL Concave Arcade Button<br />
</td>
<td>Coin buttons to go with Start buttons</td>
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<td><img height="200" src="http://www.arcadeworlduk.com/product_images/a/046/mini-pac-2__28850_zoom.jpg" width="200" /></td>
<td>1</td>
<td>Mini PAC Keyboard Encoder Kit </td>
<td>USB Keyboard and trackball controller with wires and grounds</td>
</tr>
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<td><img height="200" src="http://www.arcadeworlduk.com/product_images/j/147/u-trak-pearl-opti-trim__97201_zoom.jpg" width="200" /></td>
<td>1</td>
<td>UTrak Trackball </td>
<td>Trackball with mini-pac connections</td>
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<tr>
<td><img height="200" src="http://www.arcadeworlduk.com/product_images/k/335/PCB-Feet__55894_zoom.jpg" width="200" /></td>
<td>1</td>
<td>Pack Of 4 PCB Feet </td>
<td><br /></td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18007036498148685593noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1417526031500635935.post-20448400858064284972013-04-06T12:31:00.000-07:002013-04-06T12:32:29.793-07:00<h2>
Day 32 - Front-End Completed</h2>
The front-end is completed and working fully. I sorted out all the graphical issues, which were down to the front-end I'm using (MaLa) being pants with png files.<br />
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Here's a video. I recommend you don't view it here as it's too small. Click on the youtube link inside the video and select a medium or full screen view.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/t2Y4NpjI7eg?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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There are two navigation methods. The original is one page per emulator and you swap between emulators, then inside each emulator you move left/right to switch filters (e.g. fighting games, fps, etc). The other method uses a menu to select emulator and filters. This is the one I'm using as it's quicker/easier to get to an emulator and select a filter.<br />
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Screenshots as previous day. I'll be uploading a how-to video on mala and emulators (it took some time doing) at some point in the near future.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18007036498148685593noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1417526031500635935.post-628214966808238692013-03-26T17:42:00.000-07:002013-03-26T17:42:19.338-07:00<h2>
Day 31 Software Almost Built</h2>
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So, the emulators I've got up and running are MAME (the arcade games, I had about 5000 but I'm almost finished downloading the full 26,000), 3DO, Atari 2600, Atari Jaguar, Nintendo 64, SNES, Sega Dreamcast, Sega Mega Drive (Genesis), Future Pinball, Visual Pinball. 3DO and Dreamcast are pushing it a bit to get fullscreen.</div>
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I'm using the mala front-end. There are two modes you can do. First is the original one which simply gives you the menu of an emulator (i.e. a picture and list of games) and you toggle between emulators and gamelists using the joypad. The other mode is a menu list of your emulators and you drill down the menu into gamelists, etc then select your game (called the tree view).</div>
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I've wrote a hefty document on setting up all the emulators and the front-end which I'll publish when I'm finished. It's not an easy task getting it all done and getting the emulators to quit nicely.</div>
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I had originally used the first method, but I think I've changed my mind as it's easier to switch to emulators (i.e. a few menu moves as opposed to switching between each emulator).</div>
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As far as design goes, I'm not exactly a graphic artist, so my first option was to pinch ones I could find on the internet and I ended up with an eclectic selection, each one unique to an emulator (either taken as is or modified by my good self). Here is a selection of what I used to have:</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ktcUhuwkKmI/UVI_2cqqHZI/AAAAAAAAApc/jdBa2wTbjZM/s1600/Untitled3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ktcUhuwkKmI/UVI_2cqqHZI/AAAAAAAAApc/jdBa2wTbjZM/s200/Untitled3.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MdBHJqzHnqw/UVI_2QlY8UI/AAAAAAAAApg/kmACyK3tGpE/s1600/Untitled1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MdBHJqzHnqw/UVI_2QlY8UI/AAAAAAAAApg/kmACyK3tGpE/s200/Untitled1.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
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But I changed my mind (especially with the tree view) and I'm using the same style for each, just changing slightly the graphics. This is a work in progress:</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XgNYTeHEKWw/UVI-L3vlMPI/AAAAAAAAAo8/iorH-_xSH9g/s1600/sample.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XgNYTeHEKWw/UVI-L3vlMPI/AAAAAAAAAo8/iorH-_xSH9g/s320/sample.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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MAME rom download is at 95% so we'll seen soon enough whether the zip is valid (60Gb and it's taken a week so far).</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18007036498148685593noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1417526031500635935.post-84330616910311501742013-03-15T15:20:00.001-07:002013-03-15T15:32:04.438-07:00<h2>
Day 30 - No News is Good News</h2>
Well, it's been a while. I've been tinkering with the software and went on a two month course that stopped me from doing much.<br />
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Where I'm up to is the control panel artwork, after that I can order the side art, get the controls and upload some videos of the CP wiring, software build, vinyl sticking and the grand opening :)<br />
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I can't order the buttons or artwork though until I know what colours to buy and I can't figure out the colours until I get the control panel art done. Which I think I'm now going to have to do with my cack-hands, which I've done a few and they are not exactly great. Ah well. Unless somebody fancies volunteering ;)<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wQEICKvJ-ls/UUOgL50vXdI/AAAAAAAAAoU/ZZHmGNcCTEo/s1600/marquee.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="72" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wQEICKvJ-ls/UUOgL50vXdI/AAAAAAAAAoU/ZZHmGNcCTEo/s320/marquee.png" width="320" /></a>This is the marquee, which was done by a proper artist so looks very nice. I've been toying with the idea of putting a few white sprites on the bottom right (e.g. like the kickplate pictures below) but I don't know.<br />
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Here are the sorry Control Panels I've started with, just trying to mix the cabinet colour scheme in (a kind of vermillion, yellowish, black, white, chrome). I have no idea what to do with the front section of the control panel yet. You can probably click to enlarge if you feel you must ;)<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vmaAPLYSoJU/UUOgIzKrSMI/AAAAAAAAAoI/pU_0lFuqfws/s1600/bitmap3.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="108" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vmaAPLYSoJU/UUOgIzKrSMI/AAAAAAAAAoI/pU_0lFuqfws/s200/bitmap3.png" width="200" /></a></div>
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SITxysKhuEY/UUOgIz6YNpI/AAAAAAAAAoE/dtAarjT1L8Y/s1600/bitmap2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="108" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SITxysKhuEY/UUOgIz6YNpI/AAAAAAAAAoE/dtAarjT1L8Y/s200/bitmap2.png" width="200" /></a><br />
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As an explanation there are 6 buttons per player plus a joystick, a trackball beneath and the buttons to the top are the coin and player selects. The picture I added (metal slug) because it looked bare.<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18007036498148685593noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1417526031500635935.post-32601722677244585472013-01-13T17:54:00.001-08:002013-01-13T17:55:52.910-08:00<h2>
<br />Day 29 - Final Build 1</h2>
I've decided not to varnish/lacquer the cabinet after the side art is completed so there was no need to wait and I put the cabinet together. Using my phone's camera for the first time I had higher hopes of image quality, sadly it wasn't the case. I'll do better pictures next time. As always, click on a picture to see the full sized image.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ulxzlYYvRmE/UPNejXTOh8I/AAAAAAAAAiw/aJTsKNNRQH0/s1600/finalbuild10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ulxzlYYvRmE/UPNejXTOh8I/AAAAAAAAAiw/aJTsKNNRQH0/s320/finalbuild10.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3gsGBJsgfms/UPNekpY0ocI/AAAAAAAAAi8/l0dObzohpQQ/s1600/finalbuild14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3gsGBJsgfms/UPNekpY0ocI/AAAAAAAAAi8/l0dObzohpQQ/s320/finalbuild14.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
In case you want to see the final pictures and not read the details here it is.<br />
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There's pictures showing the speakers and glass further down.<br />
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What follows is the assembly of the cabinet. <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HI85WWxndjg/UPNefIlaCtI/AAAAAAAAAhg/Rgj0XWBMeAI/s1600/finalbuild01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HI85WWxndjg/UPNefIlaCtI/AAAAAAAAAhg/Rgj0XWBMeAI/s320/finalbuild01.jpg" width="320" /></a>This is the base (wheels below it), the first step was to build a stand for the sub-woofer to go onto and keep it nice and secure.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jPcObjtWdcc/UPNefGLeuCI/AAAAAAAAAhk/N6ABqhoCVm8/s1600/finalbuild02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="304" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jPcObjtWdcc/UPNefGLeuCI/AAAAAAAAAhk/N6ABqhoCVm8/s320/finalbuild02.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
Next the front kick-plate was glued and screwed. The hole is where the sub-woofer peaks through. Sorry, I know the pictures aren't great, but I like them.<br />
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From previous posts you may recall the cabinet has been built already (before it was painted). This means the holes are already in so it's a case of peeping a screw through and letting it drop into the hole without worrying about alignment.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BpkPwIotUMs/UPNefc5WQWI/AAAAAAAAAho/2IyhiVNafwE/s1600/finalbuild03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="209" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BpkPwIotUMs/UPNefc5WQWI/AAAAAAAAAho/2IyhiVNafwE/s320/finalbuild03.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
Next, one side was placed on the workbenches (with cloth below to protect the paintwork) and the base/kick-plate glued and screwed in.<br />
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The top section of the back-panel (the white dots is the grill I made - by drilling holes - to vent any heat from the bulb), the base of the marquee and the middle strut were screwed/glued in. The other side was then placed on top and screwed/glued. The rear section is not glued to provide access to the marquee if the bulb needs changing.<br />
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The middle section of the rear was glued/screwed then the cabinet was then stood up. Yes, before you ask I did it myself and thinking the cloth would protect the sides, I scratched one side a fair bit, but hopefully it'll get fixed.<br />
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The marquee light was fitted and there should be no light-bleed because it is in a separate compartment to the speakers and there are no gaps. If there are, it's a bit of grout to fix it.<br />
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I added the top of the marquee and the first section of the control panel surround.<br />
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This is the back in all it's glory. The bottom section is a door with a little handle to give access to the PC. It needs a hold cutting and a vent cover fitting to allow air to escape from the PC. This will be done when I know where the PC is going.<br />
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To fit the speakers I attached some contact adhesive to the speakers and a couple of square brackets. <br />
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I then attached the speaker housing to the cabinet and when the adhesive was ready I bonded the brackets to the speakers then fitted the speakers to the rear of the speaking section, as shown below. The contrast isn't like this, I enhanced it so you can see where the speakers go.<br />
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Next the moment of truth, the T-molding :)<br />
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I figured laying it flat would be easier (you can see the sub-woofer attached, btw). I glued the slot just in case then added the T-molding.<br />
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Whenever a sharp curve appeared I slit the T-Molding in several places to let it go round a bit easier.<br />
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Bit by bit I pushed the T-Molding in firmly then placed a cloth on top and with the base of a hammer (rubber handle) banged it down.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ne5fAMq_KWg/UPNejjw4TAI/AAAAAAAAAio/_xeJP1-qFp8/s1600/finalbuild13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ne5fAMq_KWg/UPNejjw4TAI/AAAAAAAAAio/_xeJP1-qFp8/s320/finalbuild13.jpg" width="168" /></a>Well, this was only for a small section as it was late and I was waking everyone up so I had to stop and just press it down firmly with the base of the hammer. This worked better anyway as it was a bit more controlled.<br />
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If you ever do it yourself, just remember to get the curves in tightly before proceeding otherwise it will have to all come out to fix as it won't stretch.<br />
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Just to try it out, I put the light on, fitted the test control panel and turned on the light.<br />
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Next the side art and marquee art will be applied followed by the control panel.<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18007036498148685593noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1417526031500635935.post-52767915909401102952012-12-19T16:41:00.003-08:002012-12-19T16:59:38.448-08:00<h2>
Day 28 - The Writing's on the Wall</h2>
Today me and Bri used the vinyl cutter to cut out the lettering that the handsome Pierre had designed. <b>Click to zoom</b>. I decided to tarnish this excellent modern retro simplistic styling he's done and garnished the kickplate with some vinyl prints (it's a Space Invader, Blinky and Miner Willy if you didn't know.)<br />
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I know the words are upside down to each other, but it took a bit of thinking and looking before I believe Pierre that it was the right way to do it.<br />
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It's not all plain sailing though (forgetting whether I mentioned this or not in a previous entry). When spraying some black got onto the yellow when the paper blew off, so we masked the bit that was wrong (the top front corner of the sides - on both) and sprayed the yellow. Sadly, when peeling off the fine line tape it pulled the orange from the corner (we're sure it had dried fully) leaving a big mess and an orange peel effect.<br />
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I've touch it up best as can and from a slight distance you can't really see it. Hopefully if/when it's varnished you won't notice.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18007036498148685593noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1417526031500635935.post-23411709316574561922012-11-30T02:20:00.003-08:002012-11-30T06:59:54.941-08:00<h2>
Day 27 - Side Done</h2>
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Gmi_8Z2WCDA/ULjAWc4oTCI/AAAAAAAAAWk/sBxLFYr0k2o/s1600/20121129_155726.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Gmi_8Z2WCDA/ULjAWc4oTCI/AAAAAAAAAWk/sBxLFYr0k2o/s200/20121129_155726.jpg" width="150" /></a>The sides were painted today and look really nice. They need touching up where the masking tape failed. First the black stripe was added (from the other day) and left to dry. Then the orange was added. They each took about 3 to 4 coats. <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RbHtfxkm3Gk/ULjAX-c4egI/AAAAAAAAAWs/LkZZHgFyVSo/s1600/20121129_190032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5TGR2VGs_3g/ULjAknfkwwI/AAAAAAAAAW8/yhKapfZxE-A/s1600/20121129_190054.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5VAgtjZJWYY/ULiIHgQRd7I/AAAAAAAAAWI/06fj26T_SSo/s1600/Untitled.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="194" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5VAgtjZJWYY/ULiIHgQRd7I/AAAAAAAAAWI/06fj26T_SSo/s320/Untitled.jpg" tea="true" width="320" /></a>My mate Pierre did some art samples. The one on the right was another friend who modified the invader.</div>
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After a bit more trialing the following were the contenders: </div>
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This isn't the finished article, but Pierre worked his magic and superimposed the image onto the photo. <br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18007036498148685593noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1417526031500635935.post-40279877712280631892012-11-26T16:32:00.001-08:002012-11-26T16:33:49.405-08:00<h2>
Day 26 - More Paint</h2>
Tonight, the yellow from the previous spraying had dried so we masked off a border of 18mm (3/4 inch) from the outside edge with the nice blue fine line tape followed by masking tape and paper, then sprayed it black. Very nice it looks too (forgot to take photos).<br />
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When it's dry we'll sand/white spirit where the black came through (the air was too strong for the crap masking tape and went through in a few places), repeat the process so the yellow shows and spray the middle.<br />
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Given the red is more orange now, I've been playing with colours and layout and found three possible fonts. I'm taking ideas (click to enlarge).....<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2wPaLWqfSkw/ULQJ7MGGk7I/AAAAAAAAAVw/98HwdPeWpmU/s1600/mockups.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="171" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2wPaLWqfSkw/ULQJ7MGGk7I/AAAAAAAAAVw/98HwdPeWpmU/s400/mockups.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18007036498148685593noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1417526031500635935.post-64193287042610005942012-11-23T13:09:00.000-08:002012-11-23T13:16:03.900-08:00<h2>
Day 25 - Don't Call Me Yellow</h2>
Tonight me and my mate Brian sprayed the middle section yellow. When I say me and my mate, I mean Brian sprayed and I watched and gave advice ;)<br />
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It didn't exactly start great when I never thought my black finger prints on the cabinet (from painting the other side) may show through when the thinned out light yellow was sprayed on. But it worked out ok in the end as there was some white primer lying around.<br />
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Click to zoom the pictures as usual. Bri did an absolutely spot-on job, but it might take until Monday to dry ready for me to spaz it up with the fine-line so <strike>we</strike> Brian can spray the outside black strip.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OIhOlqkopnU/UK_gJkBTORI/AAAAAAAAAUw/jTQP-YgCC3g/s1600/sprayyellow2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OIhOlqkopnU/UK_gJkBTORI/AAAAAAAAAUw/jTQP-YgCC3g/s320/sprayyellow2.jpg" width="273" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CxlDPWDc6WA/UK_gIDY47GI/AAAAAAAAAUo/m5fBxo4l9NE/s1600/sprayyellow1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CxlDPWDc6WA/UK_gIDY47GI/AAAAAAAAAUo/m5fBxo4l9NE/s200/sprayyellow1.jpg" width="181" /></a></div>
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The outside black and yellow stripes, btw, will be about three quarters of an inch (20mm or so) in thickness each and below is something like what the design is/was. The font will be different, there'll be no white stripe (too much like hard work) and the bottom will look more like the picture on the right (thanks to Dennis at Allegro.cc), which gives a more retro looking fade using black stripes and avoids the need for having a crap gradual fade effect like in the big picture on the left. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LHOP0MXAFJE/UIrSoNCsfGI/AAAAAAAAAO0/fNmOp83TsVA/s1600/mockup7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LHOP0MXAFJE/UIrSoNCsfGI/AAAAAAAAAO0/fNmOp83TsVA/s320/mockup7.jpg" width="156" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8qCPY7V-b2g/UK_inE6iu1I/AAAAAAAAAVE/ebR1vuBU0ps/s1600/cabyellow3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="154" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8qCPY7V-b2g/UK_inE6iu1I/AAAAAAAAAVE/ebR1vuBU0ps/s320/cabyellow3.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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If you're near the north-east of England and need the best motorcycle training money can buy, Brian is your man: <a href="http://www.2wheelsmotorcycletraining.co.uk/">http://www.2wheelsmotorcycletraining.co.uk/</a> , and he trains even better than he sprays.<br />
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Reminiscing slightly. This is what the cabinet looks like now (and the picture above).<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IyMZQ1xgMXQ/UHHQGCbwy7I/AAAAAAAAAJs/fe4FaulL1Ao/s1600/P1010810.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="192" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IyMZQ1xgMXQ/UHHQGCbwy7I/AAAAAAAAAJs/fe4FaulL1Ao/s200/P1010810.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4ow9OZ0gENc/UK_kcBzfrnI/AAAAAAAAAVQ/Fj57588c4DU/s1600/elvis.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4ow9OZ0gENc/UK_kcBzfrnI/AAAAAAAAAVQ/Fj57588c4DU/s320/elvis.jpg" width="164" /></a>Years ago when I had hair and I first started wanting to do a cabinet, this was my design (to the right), which I later decided was both too hard to cut and looked too much like Elvis.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bKwYs4wYcVI/UK_lG-sI5VI/AAAAAAAAAVY/HNIQPoJqFMc/s1600/elvis2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bKwYs4wYcVI/UK_lG-sI5VI/AAAAAAAAAVY/HNIQPoJqFMc/s320/elvis2.jpg" width="231" /></a>After redesigning I came up with this, which then got a few more curves and became what I have now.</div>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18007036498148685593noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1417526031500635935.post-29605555113451672052012-11-23T03:38:00.001-08:002012-11-23T03:38:25.407-08:00<h2>
Day 24 - One Out</h2>
I bought the wrong colour for the cabinet. It was cheap enough so I could just get it again, but I'll just leave it. It'll be fine.<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18007036498148685593noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1417526031500635935.post-80747334619400813082012-11-22T12:14:00.000-08:002012-11-22T12:14:02.838-08:00<h2>
Day 23 - Curvulicious</h2>
Not really a days work, or even an hours work, as I can't do much until I get some art.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--4WSZ6wB2V8/UK6GIBb4nwI/AAAAAAAAATo/25jSY2uffkU/s1600/fineline.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="186" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--4WSZ6wB2V8/UK6GIBb4nwI/AAAAAAAAATo/25jSY2uffkU/s200/fineline.jpg" width="200" /></a>So, I sanded down the cabinet sides to smooth away all the black paint fingerprints. I ordered some fine line tape (32m of 3mm width from 3M) for about £4. This is the stuff they use for lining out shapes on cars for spraying, like flames and such. It's thin, doesn't leave a residue and is very bendy (wish my wife was like that).<br />
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So I sized up the stripes and 1.5 inches seems a good width for the two stripes (0.75 inches each). Seems the best way of getting the curves to match was to stick my finger on the edge and run my finger round at a fixed distance.<br />
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After that I had a go at the fine-lining. The first curve (bigger curve at the bottom) looks a bit wobbly but the second tighter curve looks a lot nicer. I've a feeling I'll have to do a full side at a time.<br />
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The plan of action is to first spray the yellow (it's the inner stripe, i.e. not the edge), then when dry fine-line round it and mask with paper the inside of the cabinet and spray the outside black. Then remove the tape while wet and when the paint is dry tape again on the outside of the yellow to spray the inside the vermillion (orange/red).<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18007036498148685593noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1417526031500635935.post-35538668825758844292012-11-14T14:27:00.001-08:002012-11-14T14:28:47.815-08:00<h2>
Day 22 - My Stools are Black</h2>
Not really any new progress. Just waiting on artwork, as without it I cannot get the controls due to not knowing the colours, and without the controls I can't get the control panel cut or the acrylic sheets ordered, etc.<br />
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I have been setting up Mala, Virtual Pinball and a few other bits of software to run the cabinet though. The problem now is my computer broke so I'll be needing to find something new to put in the cabinet....<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ob32mtpk0Qo/UKQZZqOJ44I/AAAAAAAAATQ/HrmMn2CxCJI/s1600/stools.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ob32mtpk0Qo/UKQZZqOJ44I/AAAAAAAAATQ/HrmMn2CxCJI/s320/stools.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
What has arrived though are two bar stools. I was looking at second hand, but as normal with eBay they all wanted far too much money.<br />
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Being the cautious buyer, at first what I thought was a bit of scam, turned out perfectly fine - I saw some bar stools that looked nice, were a good price and had £30 discount if I bought two. The 'catch' being I had to bid for a voucher costing 1p that was then posted to me to redeem. <br />
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It turns out it's because eBay don't allow electronic vouchers, and the company selling the chairs is just trying to drum up business.<br />
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So, I got the voucher, ordered the stools (free delivery) and they arrived the next day for about £25 each. Total turnaround of two days.<br />
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Took a while to decide which ones to get, but I chose these as it went really low (so I could ensure they wouldn't be too high for the control panel) and they had a straight high back for monster sessions on Metal Slug.<br />
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This is the website <a href="http://www.tradepricehomestore.co.uk/">http://www.tradepricehomestore.co.uk/</a>, to get the voucher off just go to eBay and search for it. Really helpful people.<br />
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The base of the stools could do with being a bit heavier, but then that would mean the stools would be costing three times the price easily and you don't really get that kind of weight unless you buy shop fit quality.<br />
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This isn't a problem though as the base is quite wide to stop wobbling and I doubt any weight would really help as the centre of balance is quite high.<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18007036498148685593noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1417526031500635935.post-5021696397829920082012-11-04T10:10:00.001-08:002013-05-06T18:12:55.486-07:00<h2>
Day 21 - Painting Ends</h2>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HBdT47AgBl8/UJaf7JAW3BI/AAAAAAAAASI/moU0R1s65rY/s1600/painted1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HBdT47AgBl8/UJaf7JAW3BI/AAAAAAAAASI/moU0R1s65rY/s320/painted1.jpg" width="301" /></a></div>
The final painting has been done to the black parts. It looks a lot nicer than what the photo shows. Only problem is it hasn't quite dried and leaves paint marks on the fingers, so it might do this when fully dry so I'm thinking about trialling a matt lacquer spray.<br />
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The grill is just to let any hot air from the marquee light and as it's at the rear, looks and paint finish weren't that important.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vGp1GTrCF3g/UJaf8MBSMaI/AAAAAAAAASM/pHj5Jibp248/s1600/painted2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="92" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vGp1GTrCF3g/UJaf8MBSMaI/AAAAAAAAASM/pHj5Jibp248/s200/painted2.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vc-la8BBjXE/UJaf83dt51I/AAAAAAAAASU/-k5_AKyVeR4/s1600/painted3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="262" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vc-la8BBjXE/UJaf83dt51I/AAAAAAAAASU/-k5_AKyVeR4/s320/painted3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O6GqE2qqmUI/UJaf6UVy_vI/AAAAAAAAASA/2PfwKL7U-VM/s1600/controlpanelalmostfinal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="158" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O6GqE2qqmUI/UJaf6UVy_vI/AAAAAAAAASA/2PfwKL7U-VM/s320/controlpanelalmostfinal.jpg" width="320" /></a>I also did more playing with the control panel and I think I like what is below, meaning I will put in a trackball afterall. I tried putting the P1/P2 buttons to the far left/right in line with buttons/joysticks but they end up being at different offsets from the edge.<br />
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To give a bit more room I've narrowed the gap from the joystick to the first button to 85mm (from 95mm). Not quite standard sizes, but I'm not bothered (63mm was too close). <br />
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P1 or P2 will double as the SHIFT key so pressing that and player buttons will give pause, quit, etc. So there's no need to add extra buttons. The mouse left/right button will be the pinball left/right buttons I plan on sticking to the side of the control panel on the edge of the side panels.<br />
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Below is a more detailed picture of the panel. <br />
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Here's a video I made earlier:<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18007036498148685593noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1417526031500635935.post-81821306786876344412012-11-02T11:08:00.004-07:002012-11-02T11:24:18.916-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Day 20 - Painting Begins</h2>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZRvu8L1SFh0/UJQHr3GpvlI/AAAAAAAAAQ4/C0yiAQjdhuk/s1600/20121030_143218.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZRvu8L1SFh0/UJQHr3GpvlI/AAAAAAAAAQ4/C0yiAQjdhuk/s320/20121030_143218.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Firstly, I fixed the dimples on the arcade cabinet caused by the screws protruding slightly on the facing side of the cabinet sets (in future either get them 3mm smaller than the depth of the wood or make sure not to over countersink them - 3mm smaller really means I'd have to screw from the outside in and fill every hole). I shaved them with my block plane, sanded then filled.<br />
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The speaker and subwoofer holes are finished.<br />
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The speaker holes were created by using the router (after this picture was taken the errors on the left hole was corrected with filler - this was my first attempt, I got better on the second :) ).
The majority of this panel will be hidden (i.e. the speaker holes will be centre). The black panel behind the speaker cover, btw, is the first coat
of paint on another panel.<br />
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The subwoofer was done by making a hole (using the jigsaw) large enough for the speaker to fit through from the inside and the cover is removed and placed on the outside of the panel. This is why I bought this sub-woofer - to allow it to be exposed easily and to have a removable grill.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LHbB3zLQ9nw/UJQHssWppbI/AAAAAAAAAQ8/8DFQGpTJRSI/s1600/20121030_143306.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LHbB3zLQ9nw/UJQHssWppbI/AAAAAAAAAQ8/8DFQGpTJRSI/s320/20121030_143306.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The two pictures to the right show the subwoofer. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1QsQBVbuO0k/UJQHtOyPfJI/AAAAAAAAARE/IDQfS7kVgW0/s1600/20121030_143321.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1QsQBVbuO0k/UJQHtOyPfJI/AAAAAAAAARE/IDQfS7kVgW0/s320/20121030_143321.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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Where I'm up to is this: all panels now have three layers of primer/undercoat and three layers of black paint. The bare MDF was sanded with 600 then 1200 grit, each primercoat was sanded with 240, 600 and finally (to be done) 1200 grit paper. The black paint was left to dry for a day between coats and sanded with 400,600 and 1200 paper.<br />
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All coats were put on with one load of paint and not over painted, so the coats could be added gradually to form the finished coat.<br />
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Hopefully by the end of the weekend the paint will be fully dried and the final 1200 grit sanding done. I've no idea yet whether this will mean another coat is required (i.e. if sanding with 1200 will spoil or enhance the finish). Each layer was done using a brand new gloss 4 inch roller each time.<br />
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It'll then be assembled ready for the side panels. I was going to keep them separate to allow for transport and spraying, but I think I'll use vinyl.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Sxx1_XIEvrs/UJQLHl8-qZI/AAAAAAAAARo/qRuUjhKpKwY/s1600/1131.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Sxx1_XIEvrs/UJQLHl8-qZI/AAAAAAAAARo/qRuUjhKpKwY/s1600/1131.png" /></a>The black paint was by the same firm as I got the MDF primer and is a kind of matt based gloss. Well, it's a solvent based paint with a matt finish. I bought it because of the matt finish and it wasn't water based/emulsion so it would have some strength and depth to the colour.<br />
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The primer I used (see previous blog) and this paint is absoloutely lovely. <br />
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Almost forgot to mention: the glass has arrived, it's 1mm too wide so I may have to adjust the wood somehow to avoid having big gaps everywhere.<br />
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I don't know the percentage of light it allows through but it is grey tinted and adds a layer of quality to the picture below - I tried Galaxians on my tablet (using the MAME emulator for Android) and without the glass it is bright and shiny (somehow like an over exposed picture), but behind the glass it seems to have more contrast, more vivid colours and the game just looks better with that hint of brightness removed.<br />
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I'll post a video/set of pictures over the weekend.<br />
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Special thanks go to my mate Ahsan who's feeling left out because he hasn't been mentioned as a contributor or inspiration source yet. <br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18007036498148685593noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1417526031500635935.post-38471559847474338792012-10-26T09:34:00.001-07:002012-10-26T11:13:13.857-07:00<h2>
Day 19 - Colours and Problems</h2>
I finished priming everything, so that's two coats on every panel. Well, when I say finished I mean I'm not finished. For the visible parts (side panel, kick-board) I'm planning on a third coat, which should be done tonight. After which, I think the 1 litre paint will be completely used up.<br />
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After wet and dry sanding the second coat of the second side panel I hit a big problem (but just on the second side panel). The MDF was not smooth at all and had scratch lines and wood chips sticking out in small lumps all over the cabinet. But worse was you could see slight bumps in the MDF (no protrusion) where the screws had pushed out the MDF from the inside.<br />
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The odd thing is the screws are 35mm, the MDF is 18mm and the batons are 18mm. The screws are flush meaning they should be 1mm below the surface. My first though was I'd screwed it in too far but on the first cabinet there are no faults and the screws are the same. My second though was there was something up with the MDF (e.g. thinner and a failed QA). But I'm sure it wasn't like that.<br />
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On checking this morning it looks ok again (I think, I need to check again), so my thought now is the water in the wet and dry or the water in the primer/undercoat lifted the surface until it dried hence the stray MDF clumps and water penetration where the screws are.<br />
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Anyway, back to colours.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qx4oYwW8d0Q/UIqtLipmzgI/AAAAAAAAAM8/wbfXEid8uLc/s1600/vermillion.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qx4oYwW8d0Q/UIqtLipmzgI/AAAAAAAAAM8/wbfXEid8uLc/s1600/vermillion.png" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-i-SZMP5UqgA/UIqtLFqm4dI/AAAAAAAAAM4/dhpgIUH1sEg/s1600/suzuki-sfv650-gladius-goes-retro_3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="217" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-i-SZMP5UqgA/UIqtLFqm4dI/AAAAAAAAAM4/dhpgIUH1sEg/s320/suzuki-sfv650-gladius-goes-retro_3.jpg" width="320" /></a>Originally back in the beginning the poll showed red was the preferred colour for the cabinet sides. Then after looking at colours I decided upon vermillion (a kind of orange with a red tint, i.e. not orange).<br />
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Reading a bike magazine I saw a review of the new Sukuki Gladius whose colour was described as 'retro' and a replica of the Barry Sheene bike of the 1970's. And I think it was just perfect.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-akEnILewcOk/UIqtKidT3TI/AAAAAAAAAMw/pkGNsYMhNv4/s1600/suzuki-gladius-sfv650-retro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-akEnILewcOk/UIqtKidT3TI/AAAAAAAAAMw/pkGNsYMhNv4/s320/suzuki-gladius-sfv650-retro.jpg" width="320" /></a>When I say perfect, it's more like an 'international orange' than vermillion. Below is the original bike it was based on, which was slightly redder.<br />
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Anyway, you can see that as well as being nicely retro the colour scheme is very nice. My cabinet is already black (with chrome) so, depending on whether my artist friends has time to complete the art work and his direction I think vermillion, white, yellow and black is a very nice set of colours.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wEkRbk4kKks/UIqtJ4M-dwI/AAAAAAAAAMs/0AxzBqn2QyE/s1600/img3513m.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wEkRbk4kKks/UIqtJ4M-dwI/AAAAAAAAAMs/0AxzBqn2QyE/s320/img3513m.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
This could show best on the control panel, e.g. yellow or vermillion joystick tops, vermillion buttons with yellow surround and white player 1/2 coins.<br />
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Thin stripes around the outside edge of the sides would be very retro indeed :)<br />
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The conclusion to all of this was a mock-up of the cabinet using the colour scheme above and the space invader monster. Placement was done with the expert advice of snooker wizard Jamie from work and my cheese pasty loving mate Calla. The font is irrelevant. Click to zoom.<br />
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Finally, another one from Calla adding some depth to the scene with the monster stepping out of the cabinet. I think I like this one, but the font needs to change...<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18007036498148685593noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1417526031500635935.post-85799841385508596842012-10-23T14:55:00.003-07:002012-10-23T15:03:39.183-07:00<h2>
Day 18 - It'll Be All White on the Night</h2>
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The spec for the speakers was I wanted to be able to control the volume without going inside the cabinet or wiring up special things, the satellites small enough to fit in the speaker area and to have a sub-woofer with a bit of bass to be a little bit better than standard 2.0 PC speakers and to be able to easily make the speaker protrude from the kick-plate if necessary.<br />
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The speakers arrived (Logitech S220), very cheap ones but they really sound rather nice. The satellites are about 18cm by 8cm. On the speaker grill I'll cut two holes 10cm by 4cm which cover the speaker grill that you can see then with the router recess from the inside leaving about 2mm. I can then mount the speakers so they are almost flush with the cabinet (showing only the speaker grill) without taking them apart.<br />
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The little dial you see is the volume (and headphone/mic), which I'll mount under the control panel on the sloping side so it's not that visible, but usable. All the cables seem long enough, though I may have to cut and extend the cable from the sub-woofer to the satellites. For the sub-woofer I haven't decided what to do but you can see the speaker is to the right (the hole on the front is the air in). I'll see how it sounds and in the worst case I'll cut a hole in the front kick-plate for the side speaker to fit through.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZCRHzUM5g68/UIcN0iyP9RI/AAAAAAAAAMQ/26YI5v_Uepw/s1600/primer+1+and+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="246" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZCRHzUM5g68/UIcN0iyP9RI/AAAAAAAAAMQ/26YI5v_Uepw/s320/primer+1+and+2.jpg" width="320" /></a>I primed the wood with the first two coats (leaving it overnight). While the MDF was smooth, it had an uneven texture so I sanded it down. First with 600grit then with 1200 grid - these are very fine but I figured the smoother I make the bare wood the better. Then they had a wipe clean to remove grease and dust and were ready for priming.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1NGZvN7HpR4/UIcN10vFFzI/AAAAAAAAAMY/UXABki247nk/s1600/primer+1+and+2b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1NGZvN7HpR4/UIcN10vFFzI/AAAAAAAAAMY/UXABki247nk/s320/primer+1+and+2b.jpg" width="277" /></a>I used the MDF primer/undercoat I mentioned earlier (<a href="http://negnegneg.blogspot.co.uk/2012/10/day-11-almost-ready-for-priming-i.html">http://negnegneg.blogspot.co.uk/2012/10/day-11-almost-ready-for-priming-i.html</a>) and from reading online the process was: using a foam gloss roller (even though it's water based) I loaded it with paint (but just enough to be covered) then the primer/undercoat was rolled on continuously until the paint ran out (i.e. not continuously reloading), finishing in light vertical strokes ensuring no visible overlaps.<br />
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Most of the panels took one go and the side panel and one of the back ones took a few re-loads after running dry. The other thing was to not go over the paint, i.e. literally put one coat on.<br />
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After a night drying (it's quick drying so probably only takes a few hours) the finish was quite rough and so I used wet and dry 240 grit (which is still quite smooth) and the result was quite smooth ready for the second coat.<br />
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If you look at the pictures (click to zoom) the side panel on the left has one coat, the other has two (it's because I had to fill a few holes so no painting until the filler had dried). The second coat went on much quicker and used a load less paint. The edges (where the MDF had been cut) is also covered and there is no expansion or other problems you might get from cut wood.<br />
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The second coat looks very nice. When that's dry I'll move up to 600 grit and repeat. I've used about half the primer (it is a 1 litre tin, which should be enough for any cabinet) so the third coat I'll probably limit to the areas visible (side panel, kick-panel, speaker panel, bottom of the control panel) and that will get a 1200 grit sanding ready for painting.<br />
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I've found some oil (well solvent) based black which is matt and that will do the centre sections and I'll try my hand at rolling (in the same way as the primer). If it's not that good, I'll sand it down and spray it.<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18007036498148685593noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1417526031500635935.post-51655842932415065122012-10-19T02:11:00.000-07:002012-10-22T05:11:39.431-07:00<h2>
Day 17 - A Letter From America</h2>
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I had to stay in this morning and lucky I did as the t-molding and router bit arrived <br />
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I've started some videos. They're less exciting than watching paint dry I'm afraid.<br />
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Visit the channel for more videos<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/user/NeilNegNeilNeg">http://www.youtube.com/user/NeilNegNeilNeg</a><br />
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Here is video 5, cutting the slots for T-Molding<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18007036498148685593noreply@blogger.com0